Our forum is frequently used to discuss video, and a common topic is the video workflows needed to transfer old VHS, Hi8, Video8. Posted on March 26, 2013 March 26, 2013 Digitalfaq.com: Intermission – To the Readers of Digitalfaq.com Digitalfaq.com has told their readers. If Digitalfaq.com or anyone else tells you to trust them without backing their claims with data, that’s the point you find someone that will. Oct 09, 2018  Welcome to the digitalFAQ.com Forum. Have a video, photo or computer problem? Get answers to your questions from The Digital FAQ. Sign up as a Free Member and post your question today. For more detailed advice and special perks, upgrade to Premium Member status.If this is your first time to ever use a forum, read. Since Wednesday of last week I've done little else than attempt to create one, single DVD that didn't have the audio/video sync problems expressed by so many others on this forum.

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And I don't use the PC while the build is ongoing. I build to an ISO to check and see if the sync issues are ok, then the plan is to burn that to a DVD.

We look forward to doing more work with them.” -Steve M., from Wisconsin “I obtained sample digital transfers from CinePost and several other companies before deciding to use CinePost. CinePost’s transfer was by far the most accurate of all the samples I reviewed. The colors in the other transfers were not true to the original, and much of the detail in the darker areas of my film were lost. By contrast, the transfer done by CinePost preserved all the detail in the dark areas and the colors looked just as good on the computer as they did on the film projector screen. In addition, scratches which showed up when playing through the film projector were greatly reduced in the digitized version. I subsequently used CinePost to transfer about 150 reels for me and I am very happy with the results. In addition, CinePost’s customer service and turn around time were excellent.” -Andrew, from New York “In a world where many promise, but few deliver, CinePost has far exceeded my expectations.

Second, it starts to reject reading burned discs. Finally, it won't even play store bought pressed DVDs. The first issue is to know more about your setup. My initial instinct is to say the blank DVD in use is not good enough. Not all blanks are created equal. For a list of the best blank DVDs to use, and where to buy them, see and then compare what you have against that list.

I have a question. Last year, I bought 200 blank CD-r's sold as Taiyo Yuden. The hubs are NOT frosty and the silver part of the disk goes closer to the center of the hub.

Maybe one or more of your source files are incompatible or corrupted. And.FWIW.the following article discusses disabling the filters. Sometimes that can help: How to Burn DVD's with Windows DVD Maker (scroll down to.What To Do In Case Of Issues) Good luck.Volunteer J - MS-MVP.This Is Not Tech Support.

Be aware that like EP/SLP, playback quality of your tapes may vary because of the head/track width (some high end VCRs had separate heads designed for optimum LP/EP recording and playback). Again others here will be able to help with recommendations and possible playback issues. A bit of trivia to help in your search. Matsushita was the parent company of Panasonic (globally except Japan) and National (in Japan and possibly parts of Asia) and to my knowledge never marketed a Matsushita branded VCR. I don't know if lordsmurf at digitalfaq.com still has some of his VCRs for sale, but he would be the best bet and contact for a quality machine. Digitalfaq.com also has a marketplace where some established members sell their machines, so that's another generally safe choice. Stay away from ebay as the number of truly exceptional quality machines are rarely offered there for a reasonable price.

The large alphanumberic code pressed on the edge of the hole is similar in length and nomenclature and the small code pressed at the edge of the dye, the two digits followed by six in tiny print look the of a similar nomenclature and font. The six tiny digits of the two and then six start with two letters as does the large one on the edge of the hole. My Sony made in Japan Music CD-R discs I got a cople of years ago have the same type codes but the hub is frosty and the aluminum substrate does not go quite as far toward the hub. Do you think they are real or fakes?

Leading me to believe there must be an issue with some setting or with native MPEG2 files. The sync issue is MUCH worse on both programs when using MPEGs vs. When I use AVI's. Unfortunately, the process of creating an AVI from an MPEG is problematic as well with sync issues resulting in the AVIs. I seriously doubt it's an issue with my hardware and more with some setting: P4 2.4Ghz 1GB RAM 30GB OS/Programs, 300GB for data ATI Radeon 9800 Pro 128MB Both applications have no problems capturing video.

From what you say so far, I think the issue is definitely related to the burned dis, very likely a dying burner or simply a case of using inferior blanks. Hope that helps.

Nor have I attempted to record or capture anything in AVI since I currently have several 30-min to 2-hr (MPEG) programs stored on one of three hard drives. I perfer to deal with these before experimenting with the AVI vs MPEG issue.

I've seen it happen and, in one case, managed to get the label out (although I had to replace the 'lip' of the drive which had become sticky). Sharpie - yes, use it outside of the burned area (or on the hub).

Any thoughts on how I might determine what the problem is, and how to fix it? As a DVD player or burner ages, it starts to have more and more problems. First, the ability to write blanks gets less cooperative.

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So what's the story there? Thanks for all the great advice guys. From the link provided above- Taiyo Yuden Wikipedia I quote, as follows.

Maybe the file you are burning is more than the DVD can handle. Multi-tasking when video is being rendered can cause issues. Sometimes using the slowest burn speed can help.

Another fantastic job” -Chris B., from Florida “I have watched the DVD and my brother has watched the AVI file, and we are thrilled!” –Bettye M., from Texas “I reviewed the tape today, and I’m pretty pleased. The Super-8 looks perfect, and the 16mm came out well above my expectations. I really expected to see very little of the scenery between the spiderweb cracks and bubbles, and the wetgate cleaned them up better than I expected. Some of the film actually had no visible damage at all!” -Derek G., from Michigan.

Never a problem. I've seen new labels called made out of Film instead of paper. Supposedly those are better, and won't absorb moisture. Don't hub labels wear out over time? CD/DVD players have a mounting mechanism that holds the disc at the hub.

When JVC finally gave in and added the SLP / EP mode, they allowed playback, but not recording of LP.' This implies to me that the newer JVC machines back than did support playback for LP but most of them didn't and in order to buy a more reliable machine i would need to shift my attention to Matsushita ore Panasonic brands. I know i must sound ridiculous to be asking this in 2018 but could anyone recommend me a NTSC VCR machine with LP playback and maybe TBC support ore something so i can get the best quality still left out of these tapes? Most importantly would be the audio i would really like to get the audio captured in the best quality possible. The reason behind all of this is i'm working on a restoration project to preserve some old cartoons in their original artistic way. Licensing issues and costs have pretty much doomed these old cartoons to be altered indefinitely in future releases. Most of the original soundtracks are released on VHS tapes but only in US and the are pretty obscure so i feel obligated to get these preserved before it's to late.

You need a DVD blank (not a CD) to create a Video DVD that will play in a free standing DVD Player. That can be accomplished using Windows DVD Maker.

Reel, plus some other reasonable overhead expenses. In total it was about $700, but, as you’ll see, it was well worth it. Cinepost uses Cintel film scanners with some custom hardware that allows them to handle 8mm film. “ – Jim Battle “Cinepost was a delight to deal with. Friendly service, good turnaround, great looking product.

Thecoalman wrote:Just curious and not that it should make a difference but does the audio go out of sync if you use AVI? As a source from start to finish. I've been reading your earlier postings (here and on videohelp.com) with considerable interest; and given much thought to your suggestion that videos are best captured in AVI. Lordsmurf, as you already know, suggests that analog captures requiring only the removal of clip segments (such as removing commercials) need not be construed as true 'editing' and therefore ought to remain unchanged since nothing within the remaining clip will have changed. I'm still not sure this is totally accurate since I can understand that the ending, and leading frames between that portion of a clip that has been removed can conceivably be altered in some way. For the moment I'm content to leave this for you and he (and those far more experienced than I) to resolve.

So let me know what ones & why & feel free to talk about pluses & minuses of various price & quality levels. Finally I've heard there the only difference between the specific 'music' blank CDs & regular blank CDs is that regular blank CDs often won't work in purely music burning towers. I've also heard that, no, the music specific blank CDs are much better for music.

The main problem with all CD-R and DVD-R discs, is the aluminum layer. It is used for reflectability only, and is on the outside of the protective plastic on top of the disc. Basically glued to the top of the disc. Now on pressed discs, the aluminum layer is sandwiched between plastic, and is actually pressed with pits. If you were to damage the aluminum top of a CD-R/DVD-R, the disc would be damaged too. On a pressed disc, it's much harder to damage since the aluminum is protected. But I still say sharpies are safe to use on aluminum top of discs.

I cannot thank you enough for restoring our family memories, many of which we have not seen properly for over 30 years! The wetgate transfer is fantastic, and the colors are spot-on for every scene. I’m watching these films again and again, simply to absorb all the details that I couldn’t see before–a painting here, a toy there, a distant memory of a home long gone. These films were transferred to VHS some 18 years ago.

I have been reading this site: If you scroll down to STEP 7:PRESENTATION,it says 'NEVER USE LABELS ON DVDs!!!' I have read the same thing said on a thread at this site also. I've bought about 600 glossy labels and it cost me a bomb.

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Is there some master list out there? For CD-R's, I know that Taiyo Yuden and Verbatim media is pretty much top notch, for non-Phthalocyanine dye discs. Does this quality carry over to DVDRs? Yes, I'm specifically ignoring the DVD+/-R thing. I haven't found too much information about the different types of dyes used in DVDR's. Is there a great difference like there is for CD-Rs?

This brings me to your comment above. My recordings are simple (analog) cable TV programs in which I wish only to remove commercial ad segments, create chapter points and a menu before burning to DVD.

The following site offers info on DVD Blanks. Blank DVD Media Quality FWIW.some DVD Players will not play a home made DVD) See the following articles: Turn Photos and Home Videos into Movies with Windows Live Movie Maker Windows 7 - How to Burn DVDs with Windows DVD Maker Windows 7 - Burn a DVD-Video disc with Windows DVD Maker.Volunteer J - MS-MVP.This Is Not Tech Support. ***Proceed at your own risk***.

Memorex is fine only if you want to end up with a lof of coasters and small frisbees. From my own experiences with them they are cheap for a reason. About 1 in 4 of them won't verify correctly and out of the ones that do about half of them go bad in a few months from poor chemical composition. What good is cheap if you are throwing your money away. I've been burned (pun intended) far too many times to ever use their crap product again, I now avoid Memorex like the plague. DVD Blank Media Guide (Pretty much carries through for CD's) Also check out there motto is 'Knowledge is Powerful'.

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I've got a few gigs worth of pictures which I want to reliably back up on external media. I've known for a while that CD-Rs made with Phthalocyanine dye are the most stable and good for long term storage. Problem is that I can't seem to find a definitive list of who makes them. Meaning a brand and model, not that it's Mitsui's dye.

Best wireless mouse for mac. Now when I put them in a case, I jyst buy some Avery labels for evenelopes and print out a label with the title, year, and if applicable rating and place it on the front of the case. I've noticed that most of the newer players don't take Discs with labels too well.unless they're printed directly onto the Disc or use lightscribe. Slot-loading DVD drives can generate a lot of heat (PowerBooks, for example). Leave a disc with a label in there long enough (using, for example), and the heat may soften the glue enough to permit a label edge to peel up. Then, when you eject the disc, the label peels off and remains inside the drive. This is not urban legend.

I've never had any issues with these labels. Brother even makes a label stock with an 'industrial' sticky adhesive. Note you'll need to use pretty smooth discs for the labels to stick. Labels just pop right off printable discs in a few seconds.

It won't eat through it. If you really want to remove glue, you could use Naptha solvent. That stuff is harsh and will eat through anything! Not sure if it's even legal anymore to buy.

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I don't know if this in the right forum, but I couldn't find it anywhere in any searches I did. I'm still a bit of a newbie here.

It's just the build of something using MPEG as the source. What's frustrating about this process is no one seems to post any success stories or how they've gotten around their issues. Only people post who have issues but don't follow up success stories. That is assuming there are success stories.

Aconnell wrote: Unfortunately, the process of creating an AVI from an MPEG is problematic as well with sync issues resulting in the AVIs. Have you tried it by capturing AVI and using it as your source, no rendering etc.

'Taiyo Yuden makes Sony Music CD-R (discontiued 2008), Maxell Music CD-R and Maxell CD-R Pro and Maxell CD-R Music Pro (discontinued).' Soooooo does that mean the Taiyo Yuden & Maxell & Sony would all be about the same? The other link Rima Taiyo Yuden Discs has the Taiyo Yuden CDs are a very, very cheap price, but I don't know how much shipping will be? Maybe I'll have to just buy a bunch of them? Taiyo Yuden, Verbatim, Mitsubishi (Verbatim's parent co) are currently regarded as the Grade A media by cdfreaks.com and digitalfaq.

Before burning I disable antivirus. I've also tried disabling the Smart Render. My Hardware: P4 2.4 Ghz w/ HyperThreading Asus P4S533 motherboard with onboard audio (ADI AD1980 6-channel CODEC) 1GB RAM 30GB OS/programs drive, 300GB data drive (w/ 200GB+ free) ATI Radeon 9800 Pro 128MB (w/ latest drivers) My Software: WinXP Pro SP2 Could there be some settings I have not yet checked or something on the video card? Merlin wrote:I'm wondering whether the problem was caused by one of the updates I downloaded and installed. I may clean out my system and re-install Video Studio and Movie Factory without any updates and run a few tests and see if the OOS problem goes away. Merlin, over the past two weeks I've completely cleaned my system, re-formatted the hard drive, re-installed Windows XP and installed only the minimum software I need to reduce the chances some other program might interfere with DVD burning. Other than reading email, lurking on newsgroups and surfing the Internet, there is little more I wish to do on this computer than create useful (not necessarily perfect, but useful and watchable) DVDs of selected analog cable TV recordings.